Monday, August 31, 2015

Life is too short for boring cars: 350SL

Shot down to the car show this evening to check out any Mercs that may roll by. The American stuff, while cool, just doesn't hold my interest as much as the Mercs do. I'm sure down the road that'll change, but right now, these are the cars of my generation, per say.

This clean early 350SL on 16x8 AMG Penta wheels rolled through. 

Once the owner parked up I walked over and snapped a few pics of the old girl. 

Very tastefully done car. Nothing is out of place and it's an awesome color combo (one of my favorites). 

Ayyyy, genuine AMG Penta's complete with center caps.

Saturday, August 29, 2015

Mercedes OM606 Aftermarket Oil Filter Cross Reference

Oil filters from various manufacturers are readily available if you don't have a Mercedes dealer nearby to buy them.

The Mercedes part number for the oil filter (all OM606 from 96-99):

AC Delco: PF2253G
Fram: CH8871
Champ: P847
Mighty: M847
Napa: 1187
Pennzoil: PZ151
Purolator: L45259
Quaker: L45259
Valvoline: P847
WIX: 51187

W210: AMG / Sport Side Skirt Installation Hardware Facelift to Pre-Facelift

This is going to be a very picture-less post, more descriptive on the installation of facelift sport/amg side skirts on pre facelift W210's.

Having installed facelift side skirts on my pre facelift W210 diesel, I compiled a list of hardware you'll need for the installation. It's a simple process, but you can not use all of the facelift hardware to install the sideskirts on prefacelift cars. In my case, my 97 E300 didn't come with any skirts installed from factory. That's not to say there aren't any under body pieces to help with aerodynamics on the skirt less cars. In fact, the parts that are underneath the car can be used as a template to drill into the facelift skirts to mount them using existing holes. Facelift skirts come with 6-7 large plastic clips that keep the bottom of the skirts taught, these are completely useless on pre facelift cars (at least those that hadn't come with skirts from factory).

Here's the list of stuff that I used, or should be used to mount the new skirts and part numbers for the jack hole covers for the facelift AMG/Sport skirts:

Jack Covers:
- Front Right: 210 698 0077
- Front Left: 210 698 0177
- Rear Left: 210 698 0277
- Rear Right: 210 698 0377

- Top Trim Clips: 210 997 0033 (EPC says 18 needed, I used 10)
- Clip to covering: 010 988 7278 (2 needed) these are for the rear of the skirt to attach to the body just before the wheel well
- Cover to front fender (these hide the fender bolts) : Front right: 210 698 7230  Front Left: 210 698 7130

Beyond this parts list, everything else is fairly self explanatory. Remove all the old stuff (should be held on with a bunch of 7mm fasteners), drill some holes on the underside of the new stuff, and fit everything in place.

I prefer facelift skirts to the pre facelift stuff. They're a bit more "pronounced". If anyone has any questions about this list or how to install, leave a comment!

Friday, August 21, 2015

W210: DailyDiesel, Polyurethane Trans Mount

In efforts to make things more stout and less prone to break, we have here a polyurethane reinforced trans mount for the W210.

For anyone that want's one, $130 shipped to your door. You can email me for more info. 1 year guarantee

Thursday, August 20, 2015

W210: Daily Diesel, AMG/Sport Side Skirts On!

So the old veggie burning hooptie I got last December has been a ridiculous reliable daily driver for me. So much so that I'm finally decided on putting some cosmetic and handling money into it. I had some AMG/sport side skirts for a W210 hanging around the garage rafters for the better part of 3 years. I had completely forgotten about them until I recently started digging through everything I have to throw on ebay for a couple project bucks. Needless to say, when I found these I was ecstatic. Even more so, they were freaking 744 brilliant silver, just like the car!

Today I decided to throw them on and get them out of the rafters. This car never came with side skirts, so covering up those nasty rockers and adding a bit of flair to the car made my day. Looks pretty good, if I do say so myself.

What I'm not so ecstatic about, is the lack of jack hole covers. I have one.

They're $90 a piece from Mercedes. A piece of small stupidly shaped plastic is $90.

If anyone has any laying around or would like to get me them as a birthday present or something here are the part numbers. 

Front Right: 210 698 0077
Front Left: 210 698 0177 
Rear Right: 210 698 0377
Rear Left: 210 698 0277

I promise I won't lose them. If anything I'll glue them in place. 

Friday, August 14, 2015

What to look for when buying an old (pre-2000) Mercedes Diesel

You're browsing craigslist and you find yourself trying to commit financial suicide by bringing home a project. You find a couple old Mercedes diesels and you have no experience with them, so you figure what better way to screw yourself than go and buy one! Great plan.

I'm not going through each chassis, this is going to be a quick run down of the most common diesel engines found in Mercedes from the 1970s to the 1990s. Some are chassis specific, some carry over, but this will hopefully give you a quick idea of what to look for (and what you can expect) when trying to buy yourself a Mercedes diesel.

We'll start with some things to look for that apply to basically all of these engines.


It's no secret that cold diesel engines don't like starting. They don't have spark plugs, they run simply on the immense compression of air/fuel to create an explosion. They need some sort of heat to help in the starting process, otherwise the starter will be in agony cranking and cranking and cranking. The engines are equipped with glow plugs to be that heat source. If there's a bad glow plug, you'll have a relatively quick start, but it will misfire and billow white smoke for a while until that cold cylinder fires over. BUT, there's a huge BUT..... If that white smoke and misfire don't go away within a few seconds (10-15 at most) then there are other problems with the engine aka possible injector or weak compression.

There's a quick and dirty test to check the overall health of the engine. With the engine warm and running, loosen the oil filler cap completely and let it set on the valve cover. If it's dancing around a bit, there's a bit of blow by, which is fine. If it's completely blowing off, don't even bother with that engine. It's more loose than a prostitute's........ you get it. No blow by, or no oil cap dancing, is fantastic, but scary. The owner might have thrown in some of that engine honey to sell the car. Unless the engine has been recently rebuilt with proof, or has immensely low mileage, it's very rare that you'll come across one of these with no blow by. It's not a definitive test in engine health, but it's a quick test to give you an idea.


Shut the engine off, or at least try to. If it doesn't, the shut off system, which is usually vacuum, isn't working. There's a stop lever attached to the injection pumps on some way on every Mercedes diesel (except OM606) so you'll be able to shut the engine off that way. If the engine isn't shutting off, there's either a vacuum leak, the shut off valve may be bad, or there's a leak at the key which gets vacuum. In most cases, the shut off valve internal diaphragm has a tear and will leak vacuum. Replacement is relatively simple and the part is $35 at most. 


You have to be absolutely anal about changing the fuel filters on your diesel. They get dirty and they get dirty quick. There are usually two filters on a Mercedes diesel, a small prefilter and a main. The prefilter will usually be small and clear, if they're black, it's overdue, the tank is filty, or the idiot selling the car runs used motor oil in the fuel tank. I change fuel filters every second oil change. I take my oil 3500-4000 miles, so 8-10k miles on fuel filters is long enough. They can cause fuel starvation problems, no starts, rough running, etc. Some will say that's overkill, but ask me if I've ever had a problem with my diesel cars (I've had about 25 or so). The answer is no, it's a small price to pay now for a big tow bill later.

The injectors should be serviced every 75-100k miles. If not, the chances of you needing new injector nozzles is increased 10 fold. Unlike some gasoline fuel injectors, these diesel one's can be rebuilt, however, you need a pop tester to accurate set the opening pressure of the injectors. NA cars usually open at 115 bar, turbo cars at 135 bar. If you need someone to do the injector service, I can do it for you (shameless plug):


Do yourself a favor, buy a block off kit and get rid of it. It doesn't do anything but soot up your intake and make your diesel less efficient. If you don't want to buy a block off kit, get a ball bearing and stick it in the vacuum line running to the EGR. That way, if you have emissions equipment checks, they can't tell the thing is just there to fool them.


I realize this one is going to be a bit difficult for those who aren't familiar with the engines, but you can usually tell how an engine is running by how much it's vibrating in the engine bay, or how it's vibrating the whole car. If you find yourself sitting in the drivers seat and the entire car is rocking back and forth like a rhythmic rocking chair, there may be an imbalance in compression (dead cylinder) or an imbalance in fuel delivery (fuel injector, injection pump). If it's just a jarring vibration (steering wheel shaking), it's probably just a motor mount. Diesels go through motor mounts rapidly. For every one mount you replace on a gas engine in an equivalent chassis, you replace diesel mounts twice.


OM615 / OM616 / OM617

You'll find all three of these engines being used in the W115, eventually the latter engines were used on the W123 and W126. I call these the cockroach engines, it's very hard to kill them. If you manage to do so, you've either bought an engine that wasn't maintained AT ALL, or you did something unbelievably stupid like drive with sand in the crankcase.  I've had one or three of these that were run without oil for a period of time and they were in tip top shape at the end of the day, so seriously, if you kill one, please don't get another.

The OM615 was brought in on the W115 in 1968 and eventually phased out by 1976. The OM616 you'll find from 1976 to be phased out by 1984. You'll find the OM617 from 1976 all the way out to 1985 - in multiple forms which include the ever illustrious TURBO form.

Anyway, these engine all need their valves physically adjusted. While actually getting to the valve's is easy, there are some specially bent valve wrenches that are for the adjustment. Without the wrenches, the valve adjustment get's a bit more difficult. It can be done with a crowfoot and maybe a straight wrench, but you'll have busted knuckles and the job will take about two more hours than it really should. Valves should be adjusted every 15-20k miles, I do them every second fuel filter change, or four oil changes. It's a nice system that keeps my diesel's happy: Oil changes every 3500-4000 miles, fuel filters every second oil change, and valve adjustments every second fuel filter change. You do this and the chances of you having problems with your OM615/6/7 will be nearly nil. 

These are the necessary wrenches: 2 adjustment wrenches, 1 retainer wrench

Turbo OM617

Everything still applies to the turbo cars, only with turbo cars you have to worry about oil coking. Owners don't realize that after long highway runs, or spirited drives, the turbos have to cool down at idle for a few minutes before you shut the engine down. This prevents the oil from coking, or turning solid. You can remove the air cleaner really quickly and check for play in the turbo, forward and backward play should be non existent. A little up and down/side to side play is fine as this will go away once the engines started. The turbine shaft will float on a layer of oil. Turbo cars are much faster and much more responsive than NA cars. 0-60 times should be about 10-14 seconds, depending on how quick the trans is to respond. Any slower than that and she's struggling.

Now we come to the more modern versions of these earlier engines. These engines can be found in the mid to late 80s. They don't require valve adjustments as they have hydraulic lifters. They more powerful and more efficient than earlier engines. They aren't without their own type of faults. The 601 and 603 series, over time would develop a bit of a valve tick with age. The lifter galleys get clogged up over time and won't let oil enter or drain very well. This is where that valve tick comes from. The tick should go away when the engine is revved up to build oil pressure. If it doesn't, that lifter is kaput. What I'll usually do is 50 miles before an oil change, I'll put in about half a quart to a quart (depending on how low I'll let the oil burn down) of transmission fluid into the crankcase. Trans fluid has stronger detergents that will eventually unclog those lifters. If it doesn't work within about two or three treatments, you'll either live with it (and keep trying) or be forced to replace the lifter. Again, if the tick goes away when the engine is revved up (higher oil pressure) then don't worry about replacing the lifter. Just keep up the trans fluid treatments and it should sort itself out. Others have had success by switching over to synthetic oils. I don't care enough to use synthetics as I like changing my oil often.

OM601's are slow. That's their problem. If you can live with being the slowest Em Effer on the planet, enjoy your nearly 45-50mpg highway. If you're still alive after trying to get on the highway. This is a gross exaggeration of OM601 performance, they're not THAT slow, but they are. If you catch my drift.
OM603 (straight 6) engines had a multitude of problems depending on the year they were made. Early #14 casting heads were notorious for cracking if the engine got anywhere near overheating. If the engine didn't overheat, you're fine. Keep it from overheating and you'll be fine. To figure out which head you have, it'll be a series of numbers like 603 XXX "XX" XX. The numbers in "parenthesis" are the casting numbers of the head. Late heads "17" and "22" are expensive and rare, but won't crack, or atleast are far more resistant to cracking. 

You'll find the casting number here, it's somewhat odd to see with the intake manifold and stuff in the way:

Late OM603's are the rodbenders. Mercedes bored the block and stroked the engine to 3.5 liter over 3.0 liter. There was nothing wrong with that, what was wrong were the flimsy rods they used in the whole thing. Over time the rods would bend and oval out the cylinder causing catastrophic oil burning. Some cars had new factory crate motors dropped in, while others are running around being rebuilt or with bent rods. Proceed with caution.

I wouldn't hesitate with a rodbender (I have three of them) because they have the best parts. Take an early 3.0 block and throw all the 3.5 parts (head, injectors, pump, turbo) and you'll have an absolutely bulletproof engine.

I love these engines. They're smooth, they're powerful, they're more efficient than all previous engines and they're the most resistant to problems. It's like Mercedes took 40-50 years of their best diesel technology and threw it in one package, BUT, leave it to Bosch to F*#K it up....

The fuel supply on these cars runs through a series of plastic lines with double the orings sealing each plastic line to various parts of the engine. Over time, these lines will get brittle and break but that's a given. The apocalyptic pain in the ass is with these are the orings. They let minute amounts of air into the system and you'll get small bubbles running through the fuel. That's a problem because the engine can't run on just air. The engine will struggle running, it just may not start, or it'll misfire because instead of fuel it's not able to inject any fuel. I have a post a while back from when I did the fuel lines on the old Daily Diesel project here:

There are multiple posts on the internet of o ring replacements, etc etc etc. Check them out and get to know what you'd get yourself into.

Glow plugs are also a huge ordeal on these, only because they're so damn long. When someone without much experience tries to remove one like a normal fastener, half the body (usually the unthreaded part) breaks off inside the head. Out comes the drill, tap, and your choice of religion. Usually getting the engine nice and warm will help with removal. I left my engine on the block heater for 4 hours before I even considered doing the job. Coat the body of the new glow plug with a little bit of copper antisieze and it should be good to go for a while.

That's all folks. If you have any questions or anything to add, leave a comment below! Thanks, Allen

Thursday, August 13, 2015

W201: Nautical Blue 190E 2.3 AMG "Widebody"

The car supposedly only has 35k miles. AC compressor locked up, unoriginal exhaust, but everything else is pretty spot on. The bodywork flows well and I the whole Widebody treatment to fit the fatter Penta wheels works well. 

300SL Roadster

Was at the Monday night car show and this swung around. 

Not totally original, but boy is in a beautiful ride. Lucky guy! 

I'm a badge nerd. I think one day I'll make it a point to just take pictures of the different badges and club stuff people have on their cars. 

Who the heck has SLR 1?!?

Red on black, one of my favorite combos. 

Polished parts are the best parts. Easy to clean and damn do they look good.

Talk about a rare piece! Anytime I see one of these I'm going to be grabbing it. So cool. 

Monday, August 10, 2015

1979 - 1983 Datsun S130 Z 280ZX Buyers Guide

First things first, I'm not telling you how to buy a car, if you have limited knowledge, get someone who's experienced to come with you and look everything over. I'm merely pointing out the most common faults with the cars so you know what to look for, or what to expect during S130Z ownership. 

I've had multiple S130Z's in the past 8 years, though, most of them I ended up parting out at sacrificial lambs for my main car because they had so many nice parts that I needed for my main car. I've also been around the chassis since I was about 4, so I've nearly grew up with the damn things. I've had my fair share of trials and tribulations with the chassis and know my way around them to where I'm not surprised by anything. I'll try to make it a point to be as detailed as possible when pointing out different areas.

The S130 is the bastard child among Z car enthusiasts. You'll get a lot of people saying they're hideous, slow, and mushy. In some sense, sure, they're right. They aren't the best looking of the Z's, but then again, nothing after the early 240Z's looked particularly good in factory dress. Late S30's had absolutely disgusting diving board bumpers thanks to DOT 5mph laws and were pigs compared to earlier cars. So saying anything negative about what is essentially a highly refined chassis is being ridiculous. They're not even that ugly.

So, one of the biggest things to look for on S130's, is going to make or break a car. It's literally the defining line between having a quality car and something that is better served as a parts car and it's...


These things are rusty, there's no way around it. Even desert cars end up having some sort of rust. There's a super simple picture just pointing out where the most common places to look are.

Make sure to crawl under the car and poke around with a heavy screwdriver. Jab the life out of the metal and make sure you're not poking through into the car. People cheap out and will use a wire brush to get the flaky metal away and use fiberglass sheets to restructure the floor. Not the best way to go about it, but at least make sure you know what you're into. The biggest patch with fiberglass that I would trust is about 4" by 4" - any bigger and it's new metal for me. Remember, when you get into an accident or something, your seat is bolted to that same floor. Companies make replacement floor panels, if you know a someone who actually knows what they're doing with a welder, get them to do it and you'll be in good shape.

These went out on my S130 too. There's one goofy little spot as to why they go here as the car takes on water slightly through the B-Pillar trims. There's honestly no way around this as this is also how the interior vents itself. The best thing thing I did was treat the metal via the inside of the car and then POR-15'd it. Hasn't showed any signs of returning rust. Rockers take a couple hits from road debris and rust like there's no tomorrow. A good clear rock chip guard to treat the whole rocker, you'll most likely have no rust issues. Take a magnet to the car and run it along the body of the car - if there's a section that the magnet won't want to grab, B B B BONDO.

This is a rather extreme example of how these get - but if your rockers are looking like this, chances are the rest of the car is going to be extremely poor as well. Proceed with caution.

 This is a section that has been taken down to bare metal and all the cancerous metal cut out. The process of replacing that metal is a lot of work - don't expect cheap, quick fixes to be very good. 

Spare Tire Well
Make it a point to pull down the spare tire covering, remove the spare tire and check down where the spare sits. In the rust belt, you'll find either a hole, or some rust forming. It's a hugely common spot for rust as water gets in through old tail light seals or weak hatch seals.

Keep an eye out in these general areas for bodywork. Bad work will usually have a sort of waviness to it from gobs of bondo. Take a screwdriver and bang along the rockers and listen for any change in sound. Metal will sound hollow, bondo will sound solid. Take a magnet and run it along the panels to find the same. Bodywork isn't a deal breaker, bad bodywork is.


There are two different versions of the S130: 79-81 Zenki and 82-83 Kouki. Early cars were usually the least optioned and the most pure of a sports car out of all the years, late cars were fat, but came with what I think are desirable turbo engines. The best of both worlds is having a nearly option-less car with a turbo engine or one with a triple carb set up. Unless you're a fan of heavier, more plush, grand touring style, then the early ones are the ones to get.

So now you've looked over the car for rust and you've found one you think you can deal with. So let's get in depth with some of the features you may find problematic while owning on of these.

Cars with T tops usually leak from the tops. The seals get flat and stiff and they won't do much sealing. You may get some dripping while washing the car or when driving in the rain. Replacement seals are expensive. Hatch seals go through the same hardening, though they'll usually get torn up from people putting stuff into the hatch. Stuff grabs the seals, tears it, and before you know it you'll have water intrusion into the hatch area. That's actually why the spare tire well starts rusting up. Tail light seals are nothing more than a thin foamy/rubber gasket that get's compressed between the body and chassis. Dirt and water get in these and the chassis vibrations start wearing through paint. Left to sit you may find a lot of Z's with rusty tail panels.


While not really a problem on the manual control systems, the automatic climate control is a colossal  pain in the neck to get working right. It uses a dozen and a half vacuum lines routed to various parts behind the dash to control your climate. The blower speeds are always too slow or too fast. With the manual system, you can set everything yourself and while there still are a ton of vacuum lines to go wrong, replacement is infinitely easier. The youngest of the S130's is now 32 years old - meaning 32 years of deferred maintenance. You get 32 years of the foam air box seals wearing away and not creating any sort of seal. Removing the dash isn't too huge of an ordeal, so if you ever find yourself with the dash out, take apart the entire HVAC system and clean/reseal'll thank yourself later.

Outside of the problematic auto air, people usually people get rid of all the AC components to "lighten" the car because they can't get the AC to work. It's not difficult to get the systems working and the systems are generally very robust. In all my Z's, I've had only one that had a compressor lock up and the rest just needed new seals. Vacuum them down and fill them up. The systems lose a bit of cooling capacity when running R134, but I've have excellent luck running propane/isobutane. If you find stuff called "Freeze 12" or something, that's all it is. No big deal.

A common mod is to swap from auto air to manual. There are write ups all over the internet, so dig into them and get a feel for how to do it. You may just consider just finding a car with manual air.

The HVAC control you see below is that of the manual system.

Below is the automatic air system - the notoriously unreliable and temperamental one.

Long story short, they crack. If they sit in the sun, they get really bad. I've seen some dash's that formed inch wide cracks and ran the entire length of the dash. You can usually tell if a car's been kept up well just by looking at the dash. If it's bad, the car's most likely been left outside and driven hard. Hardest dash colors to find are black and red. If you find one crack free you're in the money. An alternative to a replacement dash are covers. There are a few companies that make vinyl dash covers that don't look too bad, but they do make the dash look a bit pudgy. They have a habit of buckling if they sit in the song too long.

Door panels hold up well to abuse. If you find a car that has door panels in tatters, don't even bother as that car was far beyond any maintenance and who knows what caused that damage. Rear strut panels are plastic, they discolor with age. Color products by SEM bring them back to life. Vinyl panels in the rear hatch may be warped and they're tough to massage back into shape. Make note of missing panels as it gets expensive to replace.


L28's are awesome engines. They're stupidly reliable, they're super cheap to maintain, and they're not difficult to squeeze some extra power from. NA engines can be triple carb'd and turbo engines can be modified for quick easy power. Like with everything else on the planet, some people just refuse to maintain their cars and let them become so dilapidated that they won't run or won't run correctly.

Vacuum problems plague both turbo and non turbo cars. There are so many places for the engine to have a vacuum leak, it's worth just redoing the entire engine's vacuum system to avoid problems during your ownership. I buy about 30 yards of silicone vacuum tubing from a local race shop to redo vacuum systems. The silicone is more resistant to chemicals and won't get as stiff as regular rubber tubing. One of the biggest vacuum leaks for these cars is the AFM (air flow meter) boot. The boot develops a tear and the engine will suck in unmetered air. Depending on the size of the tear, the engine will either run terribly, or it won't run at all. If the car develops a heavier exhaust leak, the gasket might burn and develop a vacuum leak around the intake port. Fuel injector o rings will also leak and cause similar problems.

Exhaust leaks - it's the nature of inline engines with one piece manifolds. The manifolds tend to banana over time and blow out the #6 exhaust manifold stud. The stud breaks off in the head and is followed by an annoying exhaust leak. Every single one of my L's has had that last stud replaced.

Oil pressure should be around 60psi when starting from cold. If it's not able to get that high, there may be a problem in the sender unit, or the engine is just worn down. Don't worry if oil pressure drops dramatically when hot, that's the nature of the beast. Revving should bring oil pressure up.

Most people don't know how to take care of turbos. They're run them to the ground and will shut them off. That'll coke the oil and give you trouble down the road. For a healthy turbo car, if you're revving above 3k, the boost gauge should peg almost instantly when you floor it. If it's not pegging that gauge, that turbo isn't producing as much boost as it should. Vacuum leaks or a dying turbo will be the problem. 

Turbo cars are fun. Power potential is greater than NA cars and they usually sound a little better too. Stock fuel systems, intercooled, and boost kicked up a bit should be good for nearly 250hp. Upgrading fuel management and a turbo upgrade will bring the engines over 300hp. 

Now THESE are ugly. Sure they may be slightly more practical, but they're hunchback design makes them disgusting. They're probably the reason why S130's get such a bad rap, because most of the world only got the 2+2's. So be it. Everything in the guide applies to the 2+2's.


Buy the best car you can afford. The cheaper they are, the more expensive they become in the long run. Save yourself the time and money and just find a good car. If you're handy, expect to put in atleast $1500 on top of the purchase price of the car to get the entire chassis sorted - including a full engine tune up, bushings, and any seals the car might need. From there on, they're not expensive to keep up, figure about $300-500 a year on maintenance and you'll be in good shape. 

Thursday, August 6, 2015

W140: 92 300SD Wiring Harness

While waiting for some materials for the Pagoda, I decided to attack the W140 a bit more. I knew the wiring harness was absolute shit on it, so I removed it (10 minutes) and spent a whole 5 hours rewiring the whole thing, down to the plugs. New plugs, new wire, and I just reused (resoldered) the metal pins in the plugs and we're good to go. The harness should last the life of the car now. I don't have any pictures of the rebuilt harness, but check out the before pictures. Insane. 8

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

W124: Bosch European Frenched Fog Headlights *For Sale*

I've had this set of headlights hanging around in storage for the longest time. It's time for them to go. They're original BOSCH headlights, with frenched fogs - meaning "style". They're not original french fog reflectors.

Lights are in great shape - will let the pictures speak for themselves.

Looking for $350 SHIPPED anywhere in the United States! Email me or comment below for more info.