Sunday, April 19, 2015

W113: New Life Old Soul, Ch. 9 It's a big one

Have been slacking on posting this update because I've been taking this engine apart and organizing everything over the course of a few days. Apologies in advance if some pictures look out of order, have been doing work on different parts of the car getting things ready to look brand new.

We'll start off with an upside down engine. I wanted to get the oil pans off so I can let the engine drip out into the drain pan I have set up underneath it.

Nice shot of the steel lower pan with the massive hex nut drain. When this crankcase was filled with 3 1/2 gallons of fuel/oil this drain plug was my enemy, it let all that stuff rush out like a freight train. 

Shot of the lower pan

While I was removing some of the oil pan fasteners, a piece of the timing chain guide fell out of the block. Only reassuring my decision to pull this engine and not even bother running it any further. That would ultimately have been really fun listening to this engine rattle while it was running. 

Literally 3/4" of sludge at the bottom of this oil pan. I'm still in shock that this was being advertised as a running and driving vehicle. More so, the fresh oil that I put in this engine was black when I drained it again - I can't imagine how many oil and filter changes it would take to get this engine clean again. 

I found the other half of the guide in the sludge! 

Little odd to see, but what about this picture doesn't look right? 
The block is bone dry and has been for some time as well. There also seems to be some heat discoloration on the crank near the bearings from lack of oil. None of the connecting rods have any play and I don't have pictures, but pulling the caps and checking the bearings - everything seems OK. A tiny amount of scoring, but nothing that's dug into the metal. I'm 100% sure this engine was never running in this condition, the bearing and surfaces are all in surprisingly OK condition. 

Don't use RTV folks. I don't care how convenient it is, you put this shit on your oil pan, squeeze it tight and some of it ends up clogging your oil pump intake. Exhibit A:

Upper oil pan removed.

Here's me skipping ahead and here's one of the rear brake cylinders. Both sides were locked, the brakes on this car have been dragging for ages. 

Finishing engine disassembly. 
Started by removing the "freeze plugs"

Looking pretty crusty, but for a 50 year old engine, I'm not complaining. It's in a lot better shape than I was expecting. 

Timing marker tab orientation. 

Two 14mm bolts will release the oil pump from the block. Tapping it lightly with a hammer will free it up from the block. It will be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned while the block and head are off getting serviced.  

Way to go, great job focusing man. This where the oil pump slides into. That slot is the end of the shaft that drives the tachometer cable and spins the oil pump. 

One of the oil lines going to the injection pump.

The locking screw for the tachometer drive assembly.

 "the shaft"

Here's one of those, you're an asshole pieces. This is a temporary link used to install chains. Except, this was left in place! 

On the bright side, I've got a new "tool" 

Time to dig out one of my other tools to get the timing guide pins pulled out of the block 

Tool screws into the threaded pin

Thread it down until it can't be screwed in anymore and hold the "bolt" portion of the tool in place and tighten down the "nut" - doing this will start the pin extraction process. 

I removed the tool to get this picture - the pin is on it's way out. 

Almost all the way out 

Tada, timing guide pin successfully removed.  

Repeat the process for the other pin and the timing guide rail should fall out. 

Sadly, I haven't taken any pictures of the injection pump removal. I was too focused on keeping the thing from falling off the block as I loosed the 3-4 nuts holding it in place. 


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