Monday, March 30, 2015

W113: New Life Old Soul, Ch. 5 Digging In Deep

A burst of motivation got me out and further taking apart this pile of misery. Continued with hose removal and started removing what I could from the front of the engine. 

Heater hose vacuum tubing, if it fits and works, but is horribly hideous, why not? 

Hose clamp central 

More incredibly tightened down SAE heater hose for the vacuum check valve. I forgot to check if this valve is even working correctly, so sometime when I remember to check, I'll have to make sure it's working before putting in back into use.

Caked on oil and more caked on oil. Having a nice clean engine is going to be fantastic. 

The power steering reservoir had an incorrect seal that was shown in an earlier blog post. It's clearly been leaking for ages. 

 Finished removing the air line that shot over to the CSV. 

Take a guess at why I'm pointing at this particular hose. 

and this one

Man, this hose sure is soft for a power steering hose....

TADA! Heater hose used for a power steering hose.. The hose was sweating ATF throughout. 

Here's the build tag that I had to scrub through a layer of grease to find. On the bright side, the 10mm thick layer of grease, grime and overspray of undercoat did a pretty good job of keeping the build tags in MINT shape! The conical shape of the power steering pump pulley made it a bit difficult to remove. I used the actual bolts that hold the pump in place to put some tension on the pulley and used a small chisel and hammer to tap the pulley off. Popped off like a charm. 

Power steering pump bracket. 

The now power steering-less area of the engine.  

I set the engine at TDC, based on strictly piston travel and the cam sprocket lines up PERFECTLY. I'd consider that a pretty good sign, at some point it seems as if the chain must have been replaced. 

This is the alternator tension arm. The small rubber bushings on either side of the arm are completely deteriorated and allow the arm to wobble. 

Before further disassembling the engine, I decided to turn it over a few more times by hand and line up the engine via the harmonic balancer. 

Everything lined up pretty damn well up in the valve train! 

Area void of the water pump assembly. I removed it to either replace or rebuild it. Getting it off the engine can't be done unless the V-Belt pulleys are removed off the balancer. On the bright side, the coolant passages on this engine look pretty good! 

New shot of the engine. It's missing a few parts here and there, but overall she's coming apart VERY well. Nothings broken and everything is coming off easily. Not sure if this is a good thing. It's probably plotting a way to murder me in my sleep or make my life difficult somewhere down the road. 
Just in time for me to remove the harmonic balancer too. I usually use a trifecta of pry bars to remove the balancers on every other MB engine I work on. A bit of a wiggle with all 3 and the balancers usually pop off with ease. Not so much with this old girl. 

These engines use two dowels to keep the balancer in place. These are usually one time use only and removing them will ruin them. There are two 2 small alignment dots used for installation. 

I used the three bolts that hold on the pulleys and used a puller to yank the balancer off the crank. Came off VERY smoothly and wasn't being fussy.  

You can see where the dowels sit on the crank and hold the balancer in place. The front main seal here doesn't seem to have been leaking, but it also seems like there was a bit of RTV used to seal the oil pan.

The upper timing chain guide is ridiculously difficult to remove. It's two allen key bolts and off it comes. SUPER difficult. It's under no tension and slips right off. 

It's seen better days that's for sure. 

Here it is removed. To make my life easy in the long run and so I don't lose anything, I'll usually put the bolts I took out back where I pulled them out from. Keeps me organized. 

Here's the front cover off with the distributor auxiliary drive gear and spring. 

A close up of the drive gear and distributor spring. Don't mind that it looks a bit odd, getting all this off with greasy hands makes it look far worse than it actually is. The drive gear doesn't have any wobble when installed in the cover. It's a tight fit, but spins easy. 

Can see here where the auxiliary gear sits in this cover. The little "cups" there catch oil and keep the drive gear lubricated. Pretty nifty little design. 

That's all I got through today. In the coming days, I'm going to be working on removing the head from the engine and getting a better idea of parts needed to get everything on this engine sorted out. The project is moving at a fairly decent pace. 

1 comment:

  1. Great story. I'm not a mechanic but your explanations are very clear and I can almost follow everything you're doing.
    BTW, if you haven't already found it, the "Pagoda code decoder" is in the SL113 dot org Tech Manual.
    Good luck as you continue the project and I hope to meet you one day.